Travel Flashback: Kardamyli

For awhile last year, I was posting a look back at past travels every Wednesday. Life got in the way and I stopped doing it, but I figured I’d start back up again. Today’s post is from my graduation trip to Greece in the summer of 2008. You can find the rest of my Greece posts here.

Kardamyli, a tiny seaside town in Greece’s Mani region, will go down as one of the most delightful travel surprises of my life. I went there knowing absolutely nothing about the place, with zero expectations, and left with some of my most wonderful memories of Greece.

What I remember most about Kardamyli was how beautiful it was, especially since the town is just bursting with flowers. They were everywhere – from little gardens accompanying every home to bushes and trees filled with blooms to window boxes with flowers spilling over the sides. We arrived there in the late afternoon, and as my mom and I walked around the town, I stopped a million times to take flower photos. Everything was so gorgeous, and I simply couldn’t help myself:

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(The Esperides Hotel was where we stayed in Kardamyli…and yes, it too prominently featured flowers everywhere)

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On our first night, we had dinner at Lela’s Taverna, a wonderful little gem of a restaurant. It’s tucked right against the shore, so the views from every table are stunning. Particularly if you time your dinner so the sun sets when you’re there, you are in for a real treat.

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The “menu” at Lela’s is no more than a tiny chalkboard with that day’s options scribbled on it. That’s how I think you know this place is good – the menu changes based on what’s fresh that day, and there’s no mass-produced chain restaurant food nonsense going on.

kardamyli8And before the servers at Lela’s can get to clearing the tables, the friendly neighborhood cats are there to swoop in and lend a hand paw:

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On our second day in Kardamyli, we spent the morning hiking. We were headed to a church at the top of the path, but midway up we also found these lovely ruins:

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The views from the top were gorgeous, and well worth the climb:

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kardamyli15kardamyli16And on our way back down, we ran into this cow (oddly enough, I don’t recall running into any other humans on the trail!):

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After our hike, we headed back down into town for lunch at another restaurant located by the sea.

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While there, I took my all-time favorite food photograph which, considering the volume of food photographs I’ve taken over the years, is really saying something. But to me, this picture was all my favorite parts of Greek cuisine in a nutshell, particularly the delicious salads featuring gigantic slabs of the most wonderful feta you’ve ever tasted.

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In the afternoon, we took another walk around town (stopping for more flower photographs along the way, naturally):

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And that brought our time in fantastic Kardamyli to a close, as we left town the next morning. Like I mentioned before, Kardamyli was truly one of the unexpected highlights of Greece for me, and whenever I think back on our trip, it’s usually the place that comes to mind first.

(For more on Greece, be sure to check out my posts on Athens, Delphi, Kalavrita & Dimitsana, and Olympia)

Travel Notes: Olympia

Every Wednesday, I plan to post a look back at a place I’ve traveled, including some favorite photographs and memories. Today’s post is from my graduation trip to Greece in summer 2008.

After Dimitsana, we headed to Olympia. We didn’t stay overnight there, but we did spend the day wandering around the museum and ruins. I’m a huge Olympics nerd, so I was pretty pumped to see the spot where it all began. Here are some favorite photos:

The Museum at Olympia had an awesome collection, but my favorite pieces – by far – were the remains of the Temple of Zeus. Amazing:

I also loved all the tiny knickknacks that have been recovered from the site:

We also spent some time wandering around the ruins outdoors:

Heading into the stadium via the ancient archway. Incredible:

The starting line:

And me creeping among the ruins:

Next up next week: relaxing in the seaside town of Kardamyli.

Travel Notes: Kalavrita and Dmitsana

Every Wednesday, I plan to post a look back at a place I’ve traveled, including some favorite photographs and memories. Today’s post is from my graduation trip to Greece in summer 2008.

After Delphi, we headed out into the countryside, stopping by two very tiny towns – Kalavrita and Dimitsana. We were in a part of Greece that I really knew nothing about, and that I never would’ve put on my “must visit” list – but it was cool to see such a different side of Greece after visiting chaotic Athens. Here are some of my favorite photos.

The next few pictures were taken at a roadside truck stop. I don’t know about you, but I generally think of truck stops as kind of gross and shady – not in Greece. They were very well-cared for and had the most amazing, drool-worthy collection of baked goods:

After fortifying ourselves with baked goods, we made it to the town of Kalavrita. There, we learned about the town’s sad history – the Massacre of Kalavrita during WW2. It was very sad, but the town seems to have recovered since then, and it was cool to poke around all its little shops.

On the road from Kalavrita, we ran into what would become a common sight – herds of goats wandering across the road at a rather leisurely pace. And that’s how you know you’re in the Greek countryside.

We stopped out in the country for lunch – I’m not even sure if we were in a real town; we just had lunch at a little restaurant sitting next to a stream. But, it was amazing – we were served a feast, including two gigantic fish per person. Deliciousness:

And finally, in the afternoon, we pulled into the town of Dimitsana. There weren’t any restaurants in town, so for dinner, my mom and I went to the local grocery store and bakery and stocked up on fruit, cheese, and bread for our meal. This might sound strange, but I love shopping at grocery stores when I travel – it gives you such a neat sense of “real” life there, and it’s cool to see how different some of their staples are from ours.

Next up next week: visiting Olympia and standing at the starting line in the original Olympic Stadium.

Travel Notes: Delphi

Every Wednesday, I plan to post a look back at a place I’ve traveled, including some favorite photographs and memories. Today’s post is from my graduation trip to Greece in summer 2008.

After Athens, we headed to Delphi. The main attraction there, of course, is the ancient Oracle. In fact, there isn’t much more to this tiny hillside town, but it was fascinating to explore the ruins, and it was nice to be out in the quiet – and super beautiful – Greek countryside. Here are some favorite photos:

The views of the surrounding area from the ruins were spectacular:

It was rainy as we explored the ruins, and hiking up the hillside was semi-treacherous – but worth it.

I don’t think the rain and wind really agreed with my hair:

There was also a small museum – nothing fancy, but a few interesting pieces:

One thing we noticed all over Greece – little roadside shrines dotting the side of the road. I’ve read that these are not only to commemorate victims of traffic accidents, but also are used as offerings of thanks by survivors of car accidents. Either way, they were fascinating to take a peek at:

We hiked along the road out of Delphi for a bit, just enjoying the wonderful views:

Our hotel in Delphi was super cute:

And, finally, I found this while shopping in town. Uhhh, isn’t that an oxymoron?

Next up next week: more adventures in tiny Greek towns, as we head to Kalavrita and Dmitsana.

Travel Notes: Athens

Every Wednesday, I plan to post a look back at a place I’ve traveled, including some favorite photographs and memories. Today’s post is from my graduation trip to Greece in summer 2008.

Visiting Athens, and Greece in general, was one of the best trips I’ve ever taken. Athens startled me a bit at first, because it had a very different feel than many of the places I have traveled to Europe – less cozy cobblestone streets and more chaos and grit. But it also had something I truly love – an amazing mixture of past and present. It amazes me that you can be walking through busy city streets and then suddenly stumble upon a roped off area – oh, look, it’s a super important ancient ruin! I love that the treasures aren’t cordoned off by themselves; they’re interwoven with the city, which feels like a living and breathing museum. So cool.

Here are a few of my favorite photos -

Stopping by Parliament:

Visiting the National Archaeological Museum:

We had lunch at a restaurant that was built atop ruins – when you went downstairs to use the restroom, the floor was made of glass, and you could see the ruins below (see the picture on the left). Very, very cool!

Touring the Agora (the center of civic and political life in ancient Athens):

The Church of Kapnikarea (which is a perfect example of the mixture of past and present I was talking about – this is an ancient monument smack dab in the middle of a modern shopping area):

Hadrian’s Arch and the Monument of Lysicrates:

Exploring Anafiotika, a neighborhood at the base of the Acropolis. It was so charming.

The Roman Agora and the Tower of the Winds:

I kept taking pictures of the graffiti around the city. I found it fascinating, and a yet another reflection of the city’s gritty, modern edges coexisting alongside all that history:

One night, we ate outside at a restaurant with a beautiful view of the Parthenon. It was unreal to me to see it in person!

And then we took a trip up to the Acropolis to see it during the daytime. First up, the Propylaea – the gateway to the Acropolis.

Next, the Parthenon itself. I had taken a class called “Athens: Past and Present” my last semester of college (right before going on this trip), and we literally spent a few weeks talking about the Acropolis in general and the Parthenon in particular. It was unbelievable cool to see it in person.

And finally, the Erechtheion, with its famous Porch of the Caryatids. The Erechtheion may not be the most famous building atop the Acropolis, but it was my favorite.

While we were atop the Acropolis, we were treated to wonderful views of the surrounding city.

And, on our very last night in Greece, we had dinner at a restaurant in the heart of the Plaka. It was a great way to end our time in a city I grew to love.

Next up next week: we visit the ancient Oracle at Delphi.

Travel Notes: Fez

Every Wednesday, I plan to post a look back at a place I’ve traveled, including some favorite photographs and memories. Today’s post is from Fez, the last stop on my trip to Morocco in 2009.

Fez is a crazy maze. There’s no other way to put it. While in Marrakesh, we got lost a lot – but we could still use a map and find our way eventually. Fez was different; even walking from our hotel to a restaurant a few minutes away led to confusion.

This brings me to my #1 tip for Fez: hire a local guide (we asked about this at our hotel, and they found and booked one for us). It wasn’t very expensive, and we got to have someone lead us through the crazy tangle of streets for a morning, hitting all the major sites along the way. I enjoyed our tour a lot, and I think we got to see sites we wouldn’t have found if we had just been wandering around on our own.

Here are some of my favorite photos from Fez:

Our hotel courtyard. I loved that all our hotels in Morocco (minus the super shady one in Tangier) were centered around big, open courtyards.

We drove to the outskirts of Fez to get some neat views of the city:

The aptly-named Blue Gate:

Some details that caught my eye:

I love the photo on the left – it perfectly encapsulates what Fez’s tiny streets felt like to me. The photo on the right was taken just inside a mosque:

A dried fruit stand (not quite as crazy as the ones in Marrakesh):

Inside a huge, multi-story carpet shop:

The remnants of mint tea (I loved that stuff):

The tanneries in Fez were impressive to see:

I took a covert picture of our tour guide while at a leather-goods shop:

One thing I really regret about my Morocco trip? I never bought a pair of these colorful shoes:

Lunch time deliciousness:

No visit to a city in Morocco is complete without the two of us getting accosted by local scarf-sellers:

I loved the colorful details and products we found in shops:

And Coca Cola, as it turns out, is just as refreshing in Morocco:

And with that, my trip to Morocco was over! Next week: a peek back at my 2008 vacation in Greece.

Travel Notes: Chefchaouen

Every Wednesday, I plan to post a look back at a place I’ve traveled, including some favorite photographs and memories. Today’s post is from my trip to Morocco in 2009.

After Tangier, we headed to Chefchaouen. This small town was probably my favorite discovery in Morocco. Back when I was planning the trip, I had to attend a training session at work; while chatting with the girl I was seated next to, I mentioned my friend and I were heading to Morocco for vacation. And she mentioned that she had spent two years living there while in the Peace Corps! She gave me a bunch of useful tips, but her recommendation to spend time in Chefchaouen was the best. I love when awesome coincidental meetings work out like that!

What’s so awesome about Chefchaouen? It’s almost entirely painted blue. All the houses, stairways, walls, and sometimes even the streets have a lovely blue coating on them. As a result, the town looks kind of magical. There isn’t much there by way of sightseeing, but we had fun just wandering through the blue streets of the medina and hanging out. Here are some favorite photos:

Our hotel, Pension Mauritania. We basically walked into town and came upon this one first – and it worked out fine (although it did feature a shared rooftop bathroom. Not my favorite.)

Can you spot me in the picture on the left?:

Our hotel courtyard:

I loved seeing gigantic, bright buckets full of dyes in every marketplace we visited in Morocco:

We wandered into a small carpet shop, and the French Open was on the TV. I’m a huge tennis fan, and I just found it fun to watch Andy Roddick playing tennis while I was on vacation in Morocco.

I took tons of pictures while wandering around the medina. Seriously, I couldn’t help but photograph everything. It was all so beautiful:

I loved the combination of textures here:

And I loved this star pattern:

On our last morning in Chefchaouen, we took a little hike to the edge of town. Thus, one of the few photos without a bright blue background:

Next up: we head to Fez and get lost approximately 4,327 times in the city’s maze of streets.

Travel Notes: Tangier

Every Wednesday, I plan to post a look back at a place I’ve traveled, including some favorite photographs and memories. Today’s post is from my trip to Morocco in 2009.

After Marrakesh, we took the overnight train to Tangier (note: I’ve done the overnight train thing twice now while traveling, and I have to say: good idea in theory, not-so-good idea in practice. I inevitably feel gross/exhausted the next day).

Tangier was, to be honest, probably my least favorite city in Morocco. I found it a tad bit grungy; it just didn’t seem as bright and vibrant as the other cities we visited. We only stayed for one night (we had planned two), instead opting to head to another (far more amazing) place a day early. I know a lot of people do a Morocco day trip from Spain, and they primarily visit Tangier. While that’s worthwhile, my advice to anyone would be not to limit yourself to Tangier. Seriously, there’s so, so much more.

Anyway, with that little sermon out of the way, here are some Tangier highlights:

A peek into the Tangier medina and a colorful shoe stand (these were everywhere):

Walking through the meat market and a cool sign I spotted:

More from inside the market:

A break for lunch and mint tea:

Lounging by the beach:

And finally, ice cream. We were, for some reason, craving ice cream in Tangier. We looked around for awhile until we found a cafe with an amazing selection of fancy sundaes. Seriously, these were ridiculous.

Next week: We travel by bus to Chefchaouen!

Travel Notes: Marrakesh

Every Wednesday, I plan to post a look back at a place I’ve traveled, including some favorite photographs and memories. Today’s post is from my trip to Morocco in 2009.

If I had to use two words to describe Morocco, I’d go with “colorful” and “chaotic.” The colorful thing is undeniable – we were surrounded by beauty everywhere, from bright scarves to vibrant fruits to colorful earrings. The chaotic thing, however, is probably a matter of perspective. I traveled with my best friend, who was in the Peace Corps at the time – and I think she found Morocco to be incredibly orderly and clean compared to her host country (Mauritania). I, however, found Morocco a little overwhelming, especially compared to the places I had previously traveled (the whole “being followed around by random groups of men” thing? Not for me). Nonetheless, I loved the trip and when I look back at my photographs, I’m reminded of how vibrant the country is and of how many cool things we saw.

We started our trip in Marrakesh. Here’s a look back at some highlights:

Wandering through the souqs was so much fun – I especially loved seeing all the brightly-colored scarves. We were stopped many times by over-eager salesmen who’d wrap the scarves around us in futile efforts to get us to buy them. Okay, they were mostly-futile efforts; we did buy a few.

Djemaa al Fna is the main square of Marrakesh, and is always buzzing with activity. At night, food stalls and tables are erected in the square. One afternoon, we sat upstairs on the deck of a cafe and watched the construction in progress. It was fascinating:

Another cool thing in Djemaa al Fna? They have a bunch of stands selling dried fruits – I loved photographing all the different types for sale. We also made friends with a seller, who allowed my friend to climb into his booth for a photo op:

Another thing I loved seeing everywhere? Piles and piles of colorful and interesting spices:

We also visited Palais Bahia, which I loved for the colorful tiles and beautiful flowers everywhere:

Palais Badii, unless Palais Bahia, was more ruin-like. There weren’t decorations, but merely remnants of what once was. Still, it was vast, and quite interesting to explore.

Our Moroccan food essential was, undoubtedly, chicken tajine. It was my default meal when I didn’t know what else to order:

Also yummy? Chicken couscous:

And on the subject of completely non-gourmet food, my friend, desperate for a taste of the US, was elated when we found a McDonald’s at the train station in Marrakesh:

Our hotel in Marrakesh was lovely. Here’s a look down at the courtyard, where we ate our breakfasts and relaxed:

And a few other random bits and pieces of Marrakesh, like the Saadi Tombs:

Colorful ceramics and colorful flowers:

Moroccan money:

And a little love for tourists like ourselves:

Next week: we take an overnight train to Tangier!

Travel Notes: Normandy Beaches

I had a lot of fun blogging last summer’s travel adventures, so I figured it would also be fun to take a look back at some past trips. I’m starting with some notes on my 2010 France and Spain trip; this post is one of several in that series.

It’s been awhile since I did a “flashback” post to some of my past travels, but I thought I’d pick it up again and try to crank out a few before the semester gets too crazy. And this is a good place to start, since it’s one of my very favorite travel memories – the Normandy Beaches. I knew it would be a powerful experience, but it was a very powerful experience. We had a great guide and – to use a completely cliche phrase – he really made history “come alive” for us.

One of the cool things about our visit was that we didn’t just visit the beaches; we also visited some sights inland. This meant we learned a fair amount about the role that paratroopers played in the invasion (cue me immediately reading Band of Brothers once I got home, then buying/watching the ten-part miniseries, and then becoming obsessed with Damian Lewis). Anyway, we started inland at Sainte Mere Eglise, a town in the paratroopers’ drop zone. We visited the Airborne Museum there, and we also saw the cathedral where one paratrooper got caught and hung limply for a few hours, pretending to be dead (I believe the Germans figured it out eventually and took him prisoner). The town now has a replica dummy hanging off their cathedral (you can see it below, in the picture on the right). Tres tacky, non?

Next we visited a little village, Angoville-au-Plain, where two medics set up a makeshift medical center in a church and took care of many wounded soldiers during the first few days of the invasion. One chilling thing was that some of the church pews are still stained with blood – a sobering detail to notice. The church’s windows were all bombed out during the war, and over the years, they’ve slowly been replacing them with beautiful stained glass designs – although they still haven’t been able to afford to finish the project, so a few windows are still open.

After visiting the church, we headed out to the beaches. Our first stop was Utah Beach, the westernmost of the five beaches the Allies landed on. Our guide told us that at Utah, everything went more or less according to plan, and there was much less resistance here than at Omaha Beach.

We next visited Pointe du Hoc, which I had never heard of before, but which is actually quite fascinating. Pointe du Hoc is a clifftop location where a bunch of German guns were located (and which consequently the Allies needed to capture). In order to capture the area, the rangers who landed there basically had to scale a cliff while German guns were pointed down on them. I cannot even fathom how brave you’d have to be to face something like that. The other interesting aspect of Pointe du Hoc is that it is filled with gigantic craters. Seriously, I can’t emphasize enough how large they were – pretty amazing to see.

Next, we headed to Omaha Beach – it probably goes without saying, but this was a powerful experience. I’m not going to attempt to describe it much, but our guide spoke about the landings there in a way that still gives me chills and makes me sad. One thing he said that continues to stay with me is that many survivors, wracked with grief and guilt, later said they would have rather died on that beach with their fellow soldiers than live on (even if that meant never getting married, having kids, and so forth). Unimaginable stuff.

Our final stop of the day was the American Cemetery. The thing that struck me most about the cemetery is that it was so peaceful – it’s right by the water, and you can hear the waves lapping against the shore. They couldn’t have picked a better spot. And as I imagined they would be, the rows and rows of stark white crosses were a powerful sight to see.

And that was our day on the Normandy Beaches – and it’s really not overstating things to say it was one of the more memorable ones of my life.